The winding, flower-scented streets of Mèze lie midway between medieval Montpellier and sandy Mediterranean beaches at Sète and Marseillan. This once-upon-a-time white fisherman’s house stands three storeys high on the old town’s ramparts, overlooking the sparkling Étang de Thau with its oyster beds. Scamper up to the top level, where an open-plan living/dining area with a comfortable sofa bed for two and modern kitchen gleam in the light from a huge window overlooking the water. Crack open the wine and nibbles, then head down a floor to the intimate bedroom – flowing white curtains, cotton sheets and wooden floor boards – and adjoining salon. Tiny but perfectly formed, the salon has a big mirror to multiply space and light, and French windows opening out to a balcony where you can toast the view (again). It’s all deliciously intimate, from the narrow stairs to the tiny shower room, but there’s room for six at the dining table (there are extra beds for the kids). The quiet cul-de-sac is steps away from the bustle of Mèze’s covered market, and from the fishing boats that bring your dinner to the seafood restaurants lining the lagoon.