Bowl along the Payrac road, through hilly wooded countryside – hardly a car to be seen. Wash up in Serres, a lovely little hamlet of stone houses whose steep slate roofs are tiled like scales. La Grange, part barn, part house, on split levels, was renovated some years ago by its English owners, and fused into one airy, spacious whole. Enter a sunny oak-fitted kitchen with two check-clothed tables, one large, one small; hard to believe the animals once lived here, now the beams are painted white and the door opens to a terrace for al fresco meals. Up the oak staircase is a lovely large sitting room, full of comfort and light. Bedroom walls are of mellow pale stone, curtains are linen, rugs ethnic, wardrobes new pine, bathrooms white-tiled and capacious. Although toddlers must be watched outside, La Grange is pretty much perfect for family hols: all thoughtfully furnished yet nothing too precious, and a heated pool in the garden with loungers and gorgeous views. Dine out in pretty Gourdon, then venture beyond: to Domme, Sarlat, the caves of Padirac and the wall paintings of Peche Merle.