Come to the Pays de Cocagne, the brochure says. Where is that, you ask? It is an imaginary land of pleasure in the once prosperous pastel-producing Tarn. Philippe and Andonis gave up good jobs in Paris to buy this 18th-century presbytery after falling in love with the region. Perched in mouthwatering gardens on the side of a hill, the multi-level mellow stone edifice looks – and is – utterly inviting. All the rooms, including the two-floor suite by the saltwater pool, exude character and finesse. All are different, with original terracotta floors, hand-finished plaster, exposed beams, a Chinese vase here, an antique bed there. It is worth staying just for the bathrooms, lovely with hand-painted tiles. Evening meals, on the terrace in summer, are a delight for eye and palate: something different each day, fresh from the market, beautifully balanced by wines from the region. Guests are full of praise, for the food and the gardens, the pool and waterfall, the blissful views, the wonderful hosts. We cannot fault it.