Enter the carved door to find big chunky beams and slab floors of slate, worn smooth from centuries of use. The steeply pitched 18th-century Mas de la Coutettaz, the oldest building in Morzine, lies at the quiet end of town, a five-minute stroll from shops, restaurants and lifts to the vast Portes du Soleil.
Set off in summer for alpine paths (avoiding cyclists hurtling down mountains!). Traverse the snowy slopes of Morzine, Les Gets, Châtel and Avoriaz. Return to hot toddies in the old flagged bar, and log fires lit at the merest hint of chill. Dinners in the former cattle shed are candlelit and huge fun. The food is delicious and the wines well chosen.
Big, quirky, characterful bedrooms wait at the top of the stone stair. Some overlook the garden and others the mountain. Splash out on the one with the adorable balcony.