The day starts with a breakfast spread in the cattle shed – now a deeply atmospheric dining room – and ends with a slap-up dinner hosted by Dorrien. Many years ago he gave up England for the oldest farmhouse in Morzine – the lovely, steeply pitched Mas de la Coutettaz at the peaceful end of town. Push open the mellow carved door to find a 1771 interior of dark chunky beams, huge Morzine slate flags and patina’d pine doors with original mouldings. Big, characterful, comfortable bedrooms, whose bathrooms promise white robes and lavish lotions, are reached via a central stone stair; some have mountain views. At the end of the garden is an exquisite little mazot, its bedroom up a steep outside stair. Morzine is the perfect staging post for Avoriaz and the Portes du Soleil, so come for hiking, biking, swimming in the lakes followed by lively dinners. Return to a hot toddy in the bar and a crackling log fire, lit at the merest hint of chill, even in summer. Final proof (as if you needed it) that you will adore The Farmhouse and long to return.