Sommelier in a restaurant in Lille, Jean-Marc won a Perrier contest on the luck of a draw. Off he tripped with his young wife and two children to a most emerald green valley and claimed a whitewashed, geranium-spilled, 18th-century country inn. Order a trout on the vine-covered terrace and back comes a live one in a bucket from their trout farm across the road by the river. Needless to say Jean-Marc’s exceptional wine list and creative use of local produce should lead to a prolonged stay (the nearby ramparts of Montreuil sur Mer are well worth a visit). Inside: wonky beams and low ceilings, a battery of copper pans behind the old zinc counter, deep green walls in the smaller dining room (our favourite), and all the cosiness of a modest country kitchen with open fires on chilly days. Bedrooms are snug, smallish and beamy, furnished with repro cherrywood antiques and refreshed with modern leather and wicker; bathrooms are spacious and airy. This may not be grand-chic but it’s an endearing address: an uncommon treat to find such good food combined with such perfect service.