Gianludovico and his British wife Camilla bought this uninhabited, ancient palazzo 25 years ago and have gradually brought it back to life. Gianludovico is a former diplomat and great raconteur, Camilla is a passionate painter and sculptor (her workshop and gallery are also here) – they invite you to join them for a drink on arrival. You enter from the street into a courtyard with stairs up to the first floor and the Gallery, a luminous corner bedroom with plum coloured walls, plenty of paintings, antique tiled floors, a canopy bed and views to the sea. Up more stairs to another large bedroom with an Indian four-poster, honeycomb tiled floors, antique armoires and oriental carpets. The dining room has a Moroccan feel with warm red-orange walls: here you breakfast on bocconotti biscuits, locally-made cakes, fresh ricotta, hams and sardines. There’s much to see and explore in this un-touristy region and lots of beaches with clear water for swimming.