Monica’s grandfather, the Barone Antonio, was a much-loved mayor and the piazza named in his honour is a fine place for an evening passeggiata among the locals. The farm has been in the family for 150 years, but it’s only once you pass the high gates and approach the house that you appreciate the beautiful far-reaching views toward Salerno; the sunsets are divine. Positioned on various levels, each of the good-sized and individually decorated Provençal style rooms, some sporting modern frescoes, keeps its original tiles and overlooks nine hectares of nut, fruit and olive trees and vines; enjoy a morning stroll before cooling off in the pool. The exuberant Monica offers cookery classes using regional ingredients, and dinner on the terrace (or in the restaurant) is delicious: local mozzarella, just-picked tomatoes, chicken cooked to grandmother’s recipe, and always, a dessert extravaganza. It’s wonderful being high and cool and still within easy reach of the Amalfi coast, but for children it’s the farm animals who steal the show; everyone loves Serafina the donkey who has her very own call for Monica.