Utterly, unashamedly romantic! Stone steps tumble down from terrace to terrace past lemon trees, palms, bougainvillea and scented jasmine to the rocks below, and a dip in the deep blue sea. It’s a treat to stay in this small, intimate, family-run hotel, with the most delightful staff to minister to you and the most sublime views – watch the ferries slip by on their way to Positano or Capri. San Michele may stand at an apparently busy road junction but its hanging gardens and bedrooms turn towards the sea and you live in perfect tranquillity. The hotel building is at the top – light, airy, cool; almost every room has a balcony or terrace and you are lulled to sleep by the lapping of the sea. Cool floors are tiled in classic Amalfi style or white, beds have patterned bedcovers. All is charming and unpretentious and that includes the striped deckchairs from which you can gaze on one of the finest views in Italy. Delectable aromas waft from a cheerful kitchen where Signora is chef; the menu is short, the food delicious. Atrani and Amalfi are walkable, though traffic is heavy in summer; for the weary, a bus stops outside.