You arrive at the top of a tiny medieval town. An ancient red-washed door buzzes you in – to a courtyard of centuries-old trees, chirruping birds and warm, gentle Luca, whose family has lived here for 25 years. Eleven bedrooms are divided between the ‘noble’ (early 1800s) part of the estate and the farmhouse that goes back to medieval times. Each room is steeped in character: thick stone walls, cool tiled floors, huge chunky beams. There are old wooden sleigh beds and wrought-iron day beds, pretty patches of worn paint and humble bathrooms with box showers, and a suite with a wonderful claw foot tub; it oozes charm. Views – into a courtyard with glorious trees or over the valley below – do not disappoint; breakfasts are enjoyed at cheery check-clothed tables. It’s a special place for weddings but also for families, with so much outdoor space to roam… old oaks give glorious shade, there are magnolias, palms and a greenhouse that dates from the 1700s. A delightful family runs this place, and are totally hands-on. Come for nature, authenticity, a relaxed feel… and log fires ablaze in winter.