Salento is the heel of Italy: you can walk the rugged cliffs of the Salentine peninsula, or laze on the beaches of Tricase and Castro Marina. Lucugnano is a characteristic small town of Salento. A local lady welcomes you to your 17th-century Palazzotto, holiday home of a family from Rome. It’s a wise old house, solid and cool, and built, according to local tradition, around a courtyard garden. Long stone seats are softened with cushions; a pomegranate tree proffers lunchtime shade; doors and tall windows frame cloudless blue skies. The house was once home to two families, hence the intriguing layout and the many steps and levels. A stone stair leads to bedrooms on the first floor (two of which are connected by a door); above is a roof terrace with views to Tricase and Specchia. As for the décor, it is sophisticated but friendly. White walls and stone floors are uncluttered, shutters are pale painted, a round antique table seats ten. Eat and drink your way through the produce of the region, stroll the narrow streets of coastal Otranto, marvel at Lecce, the capital of ‘Barocco’.