Don’t tell! This is one of Palermo’s sweetest secrets. Down one of the few quiet streets of this vibrant city, Le Terrazze is hard to find (harder still to book into: advance bookings only). But as you climb its five plant-filled terraces, each level revealing yet more fine rooftop views, you know it’s been worth it. Set in a 16th-century palazzo, this calm and gracious apartment opens up into lofty sunlit rooms bedecked in antiques, ceramics and paintings, all of which tell of a wealthy family history. During the renovation, Sicilian-born Giovanni and Magda made two remarkable discoveries: a stunning painted wooden ceiling in the sitting room, and fragments of frescoes in the grand, traditional bedrooms. Elegance is de rigeur here, even when sitting down to breakfast. Whether on the shaded terrace or in the dining room, lace tablecloths, heirloom silver and fine china add distinction to pastries, fruits and jams. What better way to begin a day of cultural exploration? Then end it with a gentle passeggiata towards dinner in one of the many local restaurants.