Arrow slits for sea views remain – but with the bandits long gone, Baron di Belmonte turned the thick walls of this coastal watchtower into a holiday retreat. Today it feels almost English, as oak, ash and poplar mix with figs, lemons and prickly pears. Manicured lawns are punctuated by palm and olive trees – one is 400 years old! – while the pool and play area are discreetly tucked away. There’s plenty of space to wander, picking tomatoes, exploring polytunnels, touring the olive groves and vineyards of this organic working farm. Inside, divergent living and dining rooms are pleasantly and comfortably furnished: deep pink furnishings here, the carved side of a Sicilian cart there, perhaps an antique armoire. Three of the seven bedrooms divide onto mezzanine floors reached by staircases with wrought-iron railings, while six have kitchenettes ideal for picnic-making. They host cookery classes so the food is good, and the locals pop by for homemade pasta, local sausage, fish of the day – all delicious. For anything else, delightful Francesco and Simone are at hand. A heart-warming place.