Reaching Pantelleria by plane is striking; by boat it is thrilling. The scenery dazzles in blues and greens, the gardens are luxuriant and the dammusi (guest cottages, some tiny) are scattered around two terraced hectares linked by stepped paths and pine trees. Reception is a larger dammuso with complex communal spaces, and a terrace that overlooks the Elephant Arch, an amazing rocky outcrop under which you can swim. It’s a fabulously stylish place for nature lovers seeking privacy and peace, and is run by warm-hearted, extrovert Matteo and his father; and the staff reflect the chilled friendly vibe. There’s a small restaurant that’s open to the public with a fat palm tree in its middle, a beach restaurant/bar close by, and big breakfast buffets that last until noon. Pantelleria is all about water – warm and crystal-clear; there are natural steam baths on the island, a diving centre a walk away, and a beautiful infinity pool of white concrete, with views. Bedrooms are elegant, rustic, cute; a couple, including the suite, have a sea view from the bed.