Truffle expeditions, olive oil tastings, outdoor massages – this is a sensuous place to stay. Campestri is the world’s first Olive Oil Resort (2,000 olive trees in seven hectares of land) so don’t miss the ‘Oleoteca’, and Gemma’s tastings: her knowledge is inspiring. Pass the frescoes by a pupil of Giotto and the 14th-century chapel; observe the wooden ceilings and the old terracotta tiles; contemplate the indoor well, the ultimate in ancient ‘mod-cons’. Bedrooms, some in the main house, the rest in the farmhouse and dairy, are more luxurious, with their antique pieces, rich fabrics, white towels in immaculate bathrooms and, from the upper floors, amazing views (no air con, but the fresh mountain air is so much better!). One suite has a sensational canopied bed, each floor has its own big sitting room; outside is a turquoise pool. Much of the food is home-grown with a local following, and the dining room, with its 17th-century frescoes and Art Deco windows, is a great backdrop for it. The entire place is a testament to Viola’s gentleness and to her diligent, contented team.