In the lesser known far eastern side of Umbria, on the side of a gentle hill, is a smartly restored farmhouse with beautiful views. Marcella, Massimiliano and Andrea live in a separate house on site and are passionate about growing and concocting delicious food for their guests (try half-board: it includes Andrea’s liqueurs). Bedrooms, spread across the first and second floors all have views, and some have balconies. They are functional and comfortable with simple bed linens on country-style beds and heart-shaped wreaths on fresh-painted walls. Cosa fare: what to do? Book a mountain bike or a cookery class with your hosts, or hop over the border into Le Marche, loved for its cliff-backed bays and hiking hills. Must-see cities include Assisi, Perugia, Spello, Gubbio, and there are the hill towns like Montefalco where you can savour those dry, earthy, Sagrantino wines. It’s nice here for families, too: ping-pong under the portico, a play area with sand, a garden laid to lawn, a pool with a view. But the food, organic, local and seasonal, is the thing: imaginative, beautiful, and served with much smiling at white-clothed tables.