Well-travelled Martina and Andreas from Vienna are full of love for their new venture: a restaurant with apartments (and rooms) in Umbria. It’s a ‘casa padronale’ plus outbuildings, above which teeters lovely Montone. The self-catering apartments are in the main house, spread over the first and second floors, most with a big open fireplace, all with a kitchenette or kitchen. Find original beams and terracotta floors, charming wrought-iron beds and antique chandeliers, embroidered white cotton and light-filled bathrooms that range from small to vast: there’s a fresh and beautiful simplicity. The rustic restaurant in the old stables is the perfect setting for seasonal regional fare in Slow Food style, where ingredients are home-grown or from the local farms and the dishes are deliciously Umbrian (with warm apple strudel for pudding if you’re lucky); there’s a grocer’s shop, too. Montone is a joy to explore: atmospheric churches and cobbled squares, cafés, bars and a film festival in July. Wend your way back down the hill to a garden of sunflowers and birds, lawns mown by sheep and a charming pool. A gem!