Catch the sea breezes of early evening from the terrace butting out over the water as you watch the beautiful people stroll the Zattere. Or gaze across the lagoon to the Redentore. Ruskin stayed here in 1876, and for many people this corner of town, facing the Giudecca and with old Venice just behind you, is the best. The hotel has been discretely modernised by its charming owners; comfortable bedrooms have air con, antiques and parquet floors. Those at the front, with views, are dearer; the best are the corner rooms, with windows on two sides. A small top terrace can be booked for romantic evenings and you can breakfast, lunch or dinner at the delightful floating restaurant, open to all – delicious dishes are available all day and the fruit juices and milkshakes are scrummy. Pause for a moment and remember Ruskin’s words on the city he loved: “a ghost upon the sands of the sea, so weak, so quiet, so bereft of all but her loveliness, that we might well doubt, as we watched her faint reflection on the mirage of the lagoon, which was the City and which the shadow.” The vaporetto is a step away.