This tranquil, rural corner of north east Portugal is delightful. And so are Paulo and Teresa who make you feel really welcome with local good food; breakfasts of fresh bread, fruit, cheese and ham brought to your door (dinners can be organised too) and advice on everything from biking to blackberrying, horse riding to river beaches. They’ve young children of their own and the playground, games and fenced pool are for all to share. Their rambling old property, with roaming chickens and geese, lovely mountain and valley views, has six rustic, characterful and comfortable houses converted from former farm buildings (the most separate Cocenda is Wi-Fi free, for the digitally detoxing). Each has its own outdoor space and barbecue; natural materials in exposed stone walls and tiled floors; recycled and handmade wooden furniture; some mezzanine floors, some balconies; inviting beds – a couple made of wine barrels…Teresa’s father is an inspired carpenter. Kitchen sizes vary; some have hob cookers, some ovens too. Bathrooms are country simple and being modernised. Relaxing, fun and an hour from Porto and the Douro.