A medieval banquet wouldn’t look amiss in this secluded manor house set in olive groves and mountains. Indeed, with its glorious domed chapel, delicious food and cobbled, fountain’d courtyard it’s popular with wedding parties. Hidden behind stone walls, the hotel – once a convent, a marquis’s mansion, a civil war barracks – feels like a rural Andalucian hamlet: citrus-dotted patios like village squares, swathes of white or earthy walls topped with terracotta; a pretty swimming pool; a huge events barn. Charming new owners Silvia and Eilko are putting the final polish on a dining room, where sumptuous plates of duck confit are accompanied by fine rioja and a roaring fire. Bedrooms – so big they swamp four-posters – revel in history: romanesque columns, pigeonholes, a bath set in olive oil tanks, cattle mangers, chunky stone walls, a granary’s soaring vaulted ceilings… stunning. (Tubs and showers are splendidly old-fashioned.) Beautifully rural, deliciously authentic and within reach of both beach and Sierra Nevada skiing – and if all the rustic finery isn’t grand enough, Granada’s Alhambra is 20 minutes down the road.