The house, built in 1887, gets the sun all day but in the early mornings there is often a sea of clouds beneath you: wonderful to have an early cup of tea in the garden and watch the mist disappear as the sun heats up. Breakfast is usually served in the dining room at separate tables and it’ll set you up for strenuous walking – freshly-squeezed oranges, home-baked cakes, semi-cured cheeses, sourdough bread, home-churned butter and homemade jams with seasonal fruit.
Take a book to the sitting room with a wood-burner for cooler days and lots of contemporary seating surrounded by paintings both modern and antique. Sleep in light and view-filled bedrooms with antique furniture and feather duvets, nothing should shatter your peace apart from early morning birdsong.
Hike in the Ponga and Redes Natural Parks, stride across the Picos; return to simple suppers of Salmorejo (traditional tomato and bread soup) anchovies with peppers, chorizo with cider, local cheeses.