The noisiest noise around here is cicada hum – and birdsong. The road stops at the village; remote, rustic, charming. This is a place of simple pleasures – canoeing on the river, forest walking, exploring Romanesque churches, visiting the spectacular gorge at Palancas. The old farmhouse reflects this rusticity but there are deep comforts too. Floors are oak, stairs creaky, windows shuttered, walls a pleasing mix of stone and plaster. The beamed bedrooms are furnished in elegant country style – authentic bedheads, embroidered covers, muslin curtains, warm colours, a walnut wardrobe, an antique wash stand. Two delightful bedrooms tuck themselves under the eaves and the top-floor suite is heaven: spot deer from the windows, gaze at the stars from your tub. In the early evening, glass in hand, spot vultures from the long wooden balcony that overlooks the lush garden and hills. Gentle owners Javier and Isabel serve lovely meals with produce from their organic garden, and join their guests for supper. With no television, conversation lingers well into the night. Special.