Up the road from the village, glistening with forest oaks, shrubs and pines, to arrive at one of the oldest lived-in castles in Spain. You’re welcomed by gentle Jose and Terry, whose family has been associated with the fortress for years, and whose love for the history is infectious.On the first floor are the keeper’s quarters; on the second floor, yours. You have two sitting rooms, a formal dining room and a big friendly kitchen with a table that seats eight. In summer you’ll be outside, chatting, relaxing and barbecuing in the secluded walled courtyard with views.Trot down to Castellterçol; puff your way back up. It has a sprinkling of cafes, shops and restaurants, a market on Saturday mornings and a patisserie that’s so good it’s famous. Walk and cycle (there are paths all around) or hop in the car for beautiful Caldes, a 20-minute drive. From here, there’s a regular bus to Barcelona.