Pub-to-pub along the south coast (4 pubs, 4 days)

London Waterloo to Emsworth 

Our first stop whisks you straight to the coast, with a train to Havant and a half-hour walk (or a few stops on the 700 bus) bringing you to the charming coastal town of Emsworth, where red-roofed houses cluster around a picturesque quay. With only an hour and a quarter on the train, you can leave early and make a day of it, with a stroll over the bridge to Hayling Island or down to the water’s edge to watch the waders picking their way along the beach. Retire to The Ropemaker, your home for the night, where you can enjoy some superb pub classics and a real ale, getting your trip off to a wholesome start full of hearty food and fresh sea air. 

Owner’s tip: The birdwatching on the marshes is simply superb, so bring binoculars! RSPB Pagham Harbour is nearby but there are some great spots within walking distance of the pub. 

Stay at The Ropemaker >

Emsworth to Wareham 

Heading back to Havant, jumping on the train and changing at Southampton sends you rattling west to Wareham over a few hours. Even a fairly lazy start would leave you enough time to drop your things at The Bear and head off on either of the The Wareham Two Rivers Walks. There are two circular routes between 2 miles (3.2km) and 4 miles (6.5km), starting at Wareham Quay and following Lapwing signs along the banks of the Frome and the Piddle. Some sections can get a little muddy, especially if you’re visiting in autumn and winter, when many consider the wetlands, home to many bird species, to be at their thriving best. Having worked up an appetite, it’s home to The Bear, a Grade-II listed coaching inn that’s undergone a stunning refurbishment into a colourful and characterful place to stay. The rooms are spacious, some with giant copper bathtubs and the bar is a beautiful place to linger over fine food in the evening or a slow breakfast in the morning. 

Owner’s tip: Before you have dinner with us, head to The Old Granary for a sundowner on their deck with wonderful views.

Stay at The Bear > 

Wareham to West Lulworth  

Your shortest travel day leaves you with plenty of exploring time, or lots of leeway for a second coffee and a slow start in The Bear. It’s only half an hour on the No. 30 bus from Wareham to almost right outside the door of the The Castle Inn, in West Lulworth. Here, you’ll find yourself only 15 minutes’ walk from the cove famed for its fossils and the iconic sight of Durdle Door, the great arch of limestone standing in the sea, but we’d advise saving that for a special moment later on! For now, head along the coast to Man O’War beach (40 mins or so) or the stunning viewpoint from the old stone bench at White Nothe (about an hour). You’ll find the crowds thin out the moment you leave Lulworth Cove, giving you clearer trails and a quieter walk. Hike back to cosy up under the thatch of The Castle, sample a pre-dinner cocktail and browse the seasonal menu which showcases the finest local produce.    

Owner’s tip: Everyone comes for Lulworth Cove but there are so many great beaches nearby – Mupe Bay, St Oswald’s Bay, and the aforementioned Man o’ War, to name just a few. 

Stay at The Castle Inn >

Lulworth to Dorchester  

It might seem mad to set an alarm for dawn while you’re on holiday, but being so close to Lulworth Cove gives you an unmissable opportunity and is the reason we recommended skipping it when you arrived. Make the short walk down to the beach at sunrise and get a crowd-free view of the dramatic arch and the sweep of the bay. You’ll be back in the pub having coffee and breakfast before the first busload of Instagram snappers has even set off. Then it’s off inland to Dorchester. Various combinations of trains and buses (including the Jurassic Coaster, which is sadly not a dinosaur mug stand) take you into the county town in just under an hour. The King’s Arms, your storied final stop, featured extensively in Thomas Hardy’s The Mayor of Casterbridge, as it was the author’s local, but Dorchester is packed with even older history. Visit Roman ruins and take in as many of the museum’s two million artifacts as you can before settling into the pub for a last night of indulgent, superbly cooked food.  

Owner’s tip: The house Hardy designed for himself, now a National Trust property is a 20-minute walk away and well worth a visit. 

Stay at The King’s Arms >

Dorchester to Waterloo 

The train home takes around three hours, as you retrace your steps back along the coast before veering north at Southampton, so you’ll have enough time for another slow breakfast and a browse of Dorchester’s independent shops before you head off.