A guide to the other Western Isles

Lewis and Harris 

Getting there: Ullapool – Stornoway 2hrs 40 

Lewis and Harris, also known as Lewis with Harris, is a single island split by an imposing range of mountains. Harris is the smaller of the two parts, occupying roughly the most southerly third. This is truly wild country, the furthest edge of the Outer Hebrides, but there’s much more to it than remoteness and wildlife. The stone circle at Callanish is older than Stonehenge and you’re welcome to wander between the monoliths. There’s St Clements Church in Rodel, the Black House village that showcases old island life and places to watch world famous Harris tweed being woven as well as buying a bolt or two if you’re feeling creative. Our owners there talk of dolphin spotting on windy walks, golden sand, turquoise waters, kayaking adventures, award-winning community shops, hand-dived scallops and seafood bought straight from the boat. You might even see the northern lights, on clear nights far from anything or anyone to cloud the sky or your mind.

Stay at: The Lewis Longhouse, Old Mission House, Seaside House, Borve Lodge Estate

Islay

Getting there: Kennacraig to Port Askaig (north) 2hrs // Kennacraig to Port Ellen (south) 2hrs 10 

The first thing to do when you’re planning a trip to Islay is pick your designated driver, because if you’re not going to visit a distillery or two, you’re in the wrong place. Islay has  eleven working distilleries (with one more about to open) and is home to some of the most famous names in the spirits industry – Laphroaig, Ardbeg, Lagavulin and more. While dropping into a distillery is a must, there are other attractions on the island. The beaches range from the huge swathe of Big Strand to the tiny cove of Currie Sands and the hidden Singing Sands, accessed by a short, almost unmarked walk from the lighthouse at Carraig Fhada. You can visit Bowmore’s curious circular church (so built to prevent the Devil hiding in the corners, if you believe the story) and drop in for some of the island’s other smoky produce at the town’s Peatzeria restaurant. There#s also a lovely sea kayaking tour although, this being Islay, you’ll beach at Laphroaig and step in for a dram in your waterproofs before you paddle home.        

Stay at: Another Place, The Machrie 

Jura

Getting there: Kennacraig to Port Askaig (Islay) 2hrs, then 10-minute ferry to Jura  

Even for the Hebrides, Jura is pretty wild. So much so that there’s no direct ferry from the mainland, you have to get to Islay then hop on another boat (first-come-first-served) over to Jura itself.  The paps, three impressive mountains, make a distinct shape that dominates its skyline and also form a demanding hike, on which a boggy approach leads to scree slopes and several sharp ascents if you’re taking on the challenge of collecting all of them in one go. There’s still civilisation here if you want it, including a distillery and all the charms of Craighouse, the only town, but this really is a place to explore nature and find peace, just as George Orwell did when he retreated to the island to finish writing 1984. The wildlife watching is stunning, from red deer and golden eagles to seals basking on rocky haul outs, while anyone looking for a little excitement can jump aboard a RIB and take a worryingly close look at the Corryvreckan Whirlpool.  

Stay at: Feolin Farm

 

Mull 

Getting there: Killchoan to Tobermory, Lochaline to Fishnish or Oban to Craignure

Mull offers one of the most varied and accessible island experiences in Scotland. Its colourful capital, Tobermory is instantly recognisable, especially to anyone who’s seen the kids’ show Balamory. A short boat trip can take you to Iona, known for its spiritual history and stunning scenery but also for a newly established Food Trail it shares with Mull, on which you’ll discover everything from artisanal coffee roasters and ice cream makers to the freshest produce from land and sea. For a little extra relaxation, get some ‘Puffin Therapy’ by taking a trip from Ulva Ferry with local tour operator ‘Turus Mara’ to the beautiful Treshnish Isles, to visit a colony of the characterful, colourful birds.  

Stay at: Treshnish Farm

North Uist

Getting there: Uig (Skye) to Lochmaddy 1:45 or Harris to Berneray and drive south over causeway (1hr 20 boat)

If you thought Skye was a trek, welcome to the place that’s a boat further on from there. There’s one pub, The Westford Inn, a couple of local shops and yet, in the summer, a pop-up food shack appears on a beach near Tigharry, serving fresh crab. Day trips can take you to Barra for a spot of sea kayaking, or to a surfing beach called Hosta – fast becoming a hot spot for wave seekers. RSPB Balranald runs weekly guided walks to help you learn all about the island’s avian life and teach you to spot the elusive and endangered Corncrake. There’s the chambered cairn & the Uists’ only stone circle at Barpa Langass, both thought to be around 5000 years old, and you can go in search of wild ponies and the ghosts of both Bonnie Prince Charlie and the SS Politician (the boat of Whisky Galore fame!) on the island of Eriskay, with its picture-perfect bay and one of the remotest football pitches in Europe! 

Stay at: Tigharry Schoolhouse

 

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