Dogs are welcome in this ancient warren of a pub where canine sketches adorn the walls; ‘the Landlady’ – the pub’s own chocolate lab – is often around. Enter to a mouthwatering aroma of imaginative dishes from chef/co-patron Sarah Keightley. Crispy-battered cod and chips with caper berries and mushy peas are served on The Red Lion Times, and pork tenderloin comes wrapped in pancetta with apple purée and black pudding. A meltingly warm pear and ginger pudding with toffee sauce rounds it all off nicely. Easy to find, this characterful pub has benefited from a wonderful refurb and there’s space for everyone, from the pool room to the restaurant to the beautiful flagged bar with fire and wood-burning stove. There are five bedrooms too, the quietest at the back, which reflect the unfussy approach: natural colours and crisp ginghams; comfort and attention to quality make up for their size, though the King Room has an ante chamber should anyone snore! It is cheerful, hospitable, and breakfasts are worth waking up for.