5 days on Sicily’s east coast: Secret seafront staircases and beautiful boat trips

Day 1 Ragusa 

Our journey began in Ragusa, a city known for its stunning Baroque architecture. It’s split into two areas: Ragusa Superiore, the newer part of the city, and Ragusa Ibla, the historic heart and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We spent most of our time getting lost in Ragusa Ibla’s winding streets – it felt like stepping back in time. The charming old town is full of narrow, cobbled alleyways lined with elegant palazzos, centuries-old churches, and trattorias. It’s a place best explored at a leisurely pace, taking time to enjoy long meals and soak in the surroundings. The Duomo di San Giorgio, a Baroque church, is particularly lovely and an architectural beauty, while Giardino Ibleo, a beautifully landscaped garden, offers a quiet space to unwind. 

Food was a huge part of our reason for wanting to visit Sicily and Ragusa got us off to a great start. Mornings began with coffee and pastries, and Agli Archi, where we stayed, also operated a small cafe that served traditional lemon granita (a refreshing, frozen, Italian lemonade treat) – the perfect way to start the day. One of my favourite meals of the whole trip was at Scale del Gusto, an elegant restaurant with breathtaking views of Ragusa Ibla, serving delicious Sicilian dishes. 

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Getting around 

A return bus ticket from Catania (the nearest airport) to Ragusa cost 17.20 EUR per person with the journey taking approximately 1 hour 45 mins. From the bus terminal, you will need to arrange a taxi to get to historic Ragusa, but once there, you can explore the city on foot.

It’s worth noting that seats on the buses aren’t assigned, so if your scheduled bus fills up before you board, you may need to wait for the next one, but your ticket remains valid for the next available departure (they run every hour). You just need to show the QR code to the bus driver when you board.

Day 2 Around Ragusa  

We spent two nights in Ragusa, which was the ideal amount of time to explore. However, if we had extra time, we would have extended our stay to visit nearby towns such as Modica and Noto for either a half-day or full-day out. While Etna Trasporti connects major cities like Catania and Ragusa, other bus operators, such as AST (Azienda Siciliana Trasporti), offer routes that link Ragusa to Modica (40 mins) and Noto (2 hour 20 mins). 

Modica is best known for its unique chocolate-making tradition – I would have loved to sample their famous Modican chocolate at one of the many chocolatiers, wander through the charming streets and visit the Castello dei Conti, a historic castle with beautiful views.  

Meanwhile, Noto is often called the “capital of Sicilian Baroque”. You can wander down Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main street of the city that runs through the historic center. The architecture is beautiful and often lit up in golden hues from the sun. You can also stop for granita at Caffé Sicilia, voted the best bar in Italy a few years ago. If you’re visiting in May, don’t miss the Infiorata di Noto, an annual festival where flower artists create and share beautiful petal mosaics inspired by the year’s theme. 

Day 3 Etna trip 

If you have time, consider a day trip to Mount Etna, Europe’s highest active volcano. Many tour operators run excursions, but be aware that most tours last 5-6 hours, so you may want to extend your trip to fit it in. The views from the top, at the right time of year, give you the incredible sight of a rainbow landscape, with the snows of the peak, the black soil, green fields, golden beaches and blue seas laid out in ribbons beneath you. If you take a guided hike, ask about exploring the ice caves, a curious feature of the mountain’s upper reaches. Remember though, that this is a great day to have in mind, but Etna is still active and can quickly become inaccessible or inadvisable to travel to.  

Day 4 Taormina 

After soaking up Ragusa’s historic charm, we headed to Taormina, a dreamy coastal town perched high above the Ionian Sea. Famous for its stunning views, ancient ruins, and lively atmosphere, it quickly became a favourite. While renting a car is a great way to explore Sicily, we relied on public transport to travel between Ragusa and Taormina, and it worked seamlessly. Again, we booked this through Etna Trasporti’s website.  

Since Taormina is a hilltop town, choosing where to stay depends on whether you prefer to be closer to the bustling centre (with restaurants, shops, and piazzas) or the beaches. We decided to split our time between both. The main street, Corso Umberto, is lined with charming shops selling lots of goods from local ceramics to Sicilian groceries and pastries.  

We felt spoilt for food choices in Taormina. Our best pasta of the trip was at Osteria da Rita – delicious but wildly popular, so be prepared for a long queue (we waited an hour!). I’d recommend arriving at opening time if you’re able to. Another highlight was Timoleone Cocktail Bar & Vegetarian Restaurant, with its charming seating on the stairs, great cocktails, and food so good you’ll want to return (which we actually did!). We also got a beautiful view of Mount Etna, from Al Saraceno, where we enjoyed delicious pizzas and stumbled upon the nearby Chiesa Madonna della Rocca, a small, peaceful church on the mountain overlooking Taormina. From there, a long staircase winds down to central Taormina, offering stunning sea views along the way. We were surprised to find so few people here—it felt like we’d discovered a hidden gem.  

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As in Ragusa, there’s the gardens of Villa Comunale di Taormina for when you need a quiet spot and I’d highly recommend visiting the Teatro Antico di Taormina, an ancient Greek-Roman amphitheatre offering some of the best panoramic views in Sicily. Some of the best moments on our trip though, were when we were aimlessly wandering through the softly lit streets in the buzz of the evening.  

Getting around 

A single bus ticket from Ragusa to Taormina cost 13.60 EUR with the journey taking approximately 3 hours 10 mins. However, it travels via Catania airport so if you took the bus from the airport to Taormina instead, the total journey time is 1 hour 25 mins and costs only 7 EUR per person. Along the way, we caught glimpses of Mount Etna in the distance – a stunning sight! From Taormina’s bus terminal, you can walk to the town within 10 to 15 mins, although if you’re carrying a lot of luggage, you may prefer a taxi.

Day 5 Boat to caves 

One of the highlights of our trip was spending lots of time by the sea. The crystal-clear water is perfect for a refreshing dip, although it does still get fairly chilly at certain times of year. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can rent a kayak and paddle along the coast, but we took a private boat tour to explore the hidden caves and coves along the shore. You can also spend a day at Isola Bella, a tiny island that is Taormina’s most famous beach, known for its crystal-clear water and scenic beauty. Seeing the island from this different perspective felt like the perfect way to end the trip. We could look back at the land, marvel at everything we’d found there and dream of discovering all that there still was to find.

 

Find out more about Tanya Arya on her website or follow her on Instagram.

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