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7 days in Puglia by train: Seaside towns and the Florence of the south

Christopher Wilson-Elmes Profile Image

Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

In this six or seven day itinerary for a ramble through Puglia, Giuliana Di Venti, our roving Italian inspector, takes us from sashimi and sidestreets in Bari’s old town to angular castles by the sea, octagonal towers on scenic hilltops and cream-filled pastries in Lecce, the “Florence of the south”.

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Day 1: Bari  

The vibrant capital of Puglia is rich in history, having for centuries been a key stop on the Via Francigena, a pilgrimage route that runs all the way from Canterbury to the Holy Land. Still a major transportation hub, it’s the perfect gateway to start your exploration of the region but also a great place to visit in its own right. You can see stunning landmarks like the Basilica di San Nicola and lose yourself in the charming, narrow streets that meander through the city. I always head for old Bari and stop for the sashimi at La Pesciera.  

Day 2: Bari to Trani

35 minutes by train 

Trains from Bari to Trani are regular and easy on the wallet. This quaint seaside town is home to a beautiful Romanesque cathedral that stands proudly by the water with the angular walls of the Swabian castle offering an imposing counterpoint just a few steps down the coast.  

Day 3: Trani to Barletta 

20 minutes by train 

Barletta, another official stop along the Via Francigena, offers a fascinating blend of medieval and Napoleonic heritage, and is located near the historically significant Canne della Battaglia, where the Romans suffered a crushing defeat to the armies of Hannibal.  

Day 4: Barletta to Castel del Monte 

2 hrs by bus/train 

Take a train to Andria and then hop on a shuttle or bus to reach the castle, famous for its octagonal shape with towers at each point and its commanding views of the countryside. There is still debate as to whether the UNESCO World Heritage Site, was originally intended as a defensive fortress or something more innocuous, with some suggesting it was nothing more than a rather grand hunting lodge. Whatever its original purpose, it’s worth a visit for the views alone. 

Day 5/6: Bari to Ostuni 

1hr 20 minutes by train 

The White Jewel Train from Bari to Ostuni takes roughly 1 hour 20 minutes on a rural train that puts in stops at the small towns along the way. If you visited Castel del Monte as a day trip, your travel time will be just that, but if you stayed overnight and you’re coming back to Bari before heading south, add a couple of hours. The train station at Ostuni is about 2 km from the town center, but taxis and shuttle services are readily available. Ostuni, perched on a hilltop, is famous for its dazzling whitewashed buildings, panoramic views, and the charming maze of narrow alleys. The historic town center is a perfect place to stroll and absorb the atmosphere.  

Day 7: Ostuni to Lecce 

1hr by train 

It’ll only take you around an hour to hop over to Lecce, often called the “Florence of the South”. Lecce’s historic center is small, so it’s easy to explore on foot, and it’s a treasure trove of Baroque architecture, with stunning churches, grand piazzas, and the remarkable Roman amphitheater. The last time I visited I made sure to see Lecce at dawn, when the streets were empty and silent and the light enhanced the bright white colour of the cathedral. It’s well worth setting your alarm for. Another thing you should definitely try is the local specialty, pasticciotto, a delicious pastry with a creamy filling. If you have another spare day, then head to Otranto about 1.5 hours by train from to the coast. This absolutely gem is known for its turquoise waters, the imposing Aragonese Castle, and a cathedral with an exquisite mosaic floor depicting the Tree of Life. 

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Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

Chris is our in-house copywriter, with a flair for turning rough notes and travel tales into enticing articles. Raised in a tiny Wiltshire village, he was desperate to travel and has backpacked all over the world. Closer to home, he finds himself happiest in the most remote and rural places he can find, preferably with a host of animals to speak to, some waves to be smashed about in and the promise of a good pint somewhere in his future.

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