Shop, eat and live local in Appledore, Devon: An owner’s guide
5 min read
Food is a huge part of why we travel, but the temptation when you go on holiday is always to hit a big supermarket on the way, saving your sampling of local cuisine for cafés and restaurants. So, we asked Amanda, owner of the beautiful cottage Cornwallis in Devon, to give us an extremely local guide to Appledore’s delis and farm shops. Let her spread of recommendations tempt you to turn functional shopping into a delicious tour of local produce and the people who create it.
Devon and Cornwall Fish Company
This local, family-run institution has been operating since 1941 and you hope it’ll continue to do so for many more years. Their support for sustainable fishing practices definitely takes the long view and their position right on the estuary of the River Torridge means they can get the catch right off the boats and have it in the shop in no time. If you’re thinking of sampling some local seafood, there might be plenty of places nearby that can cook it for you, but there’s something special about going to down to within sight of the water to buy your own.
The Appledore Bakery
This is a fabulous place to stop in and get coffee (they use a super-smooth roast from Croyde Coffee) or cake, but if you’re talking about avoiding the big shops, then this is your bread stop. Owners Kat and Joe, along with their sourdough starter Betty (named in honour of Joe’s grandma) create a lovely loaf that’s soft on the inside and not too crunchy on the outside. It’s great for anyone with allergies or intolerances, or in fact anyone who just likes brilliant bread!
Marshford
Now you’ve got your loaves and fishes, it’s time for everything else. Marshford, just down the road in Northam, is the place to go for organic fruit and veg, plus they also deliver so you could have them ship some ingredients over to you. It’s run by the Ebdon family, who now have over 40 years’ experience in growing and supplying their produce, but were new to the game when they moved to the area. They stock a good selection of lovely things in jars too, but for the best of that sort of thing, I’d probably head to…
Johns of Instow
This is a simply wonderful deli and, best of all, it gives you the opportunity to cross the harbour on the little passenger ferry from Appledore. You’ll find some similar things to what Marshford have on offer, but also a broad range of cheeses and the finest produce from over 100 local suppliers. Their Instow beach hut also offers the dangerously tempting “build your own ice cream” service, which will load you up with a cone big enough to last the ferry crossing back! But you could also look out for…
Hockings Ice Cream
If you take home some Hocking’s Ice Cream, you’ll have staunchly traditional locals to thank. Hockings made a variety of superb ice cream flavours, but all but one of their iconic red and yellow vans only sell vanilla for you to eat on the spot. The other flavours are packaged up ready for you to take home. The story goes that so many locals grew up on vanilla that they pointedly refuse to try anything else, so the other flavours are sold for takeaway, kept mostly out of sight to avoid the outrage!
Appledore Farmers’ Market
You’ll need a bit of luck (or planning) with the timing for this, but it’s well worth dropping in if you find the market is on. It’s not just a great showcase of all the area’s produce – you can get most of what you’ll find here at the shops above – it’s more a lovely chance to mix and mingle with the locals and feel part of a longstanding piece of cultural heritage.
The Glorious Oyster
I know it’s eating out rather than shopping local, but many people feel that oysters are something you have to eat as fresh as you possibly can. If you’re one of them, then this is where to go to get your shellfish. It’s right on the beach and serves a range of superb seafood, including of course, an oyster glorious enough to satisfy even the pickiest shucker.
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