Inspiration

Dolphins, otters, and ghillies: Wildlife spotting trips on the Isle of Skye

Sawday's Expert

5 min read

Wildlife is all around you on Skye, but while you could just keep your eyes open when you’re hiking the hills, an expert guide can turn a chance sighting into an enchanting picture of animal behaviour and local knowledge, as well as helping you avoid any negative impact on the creatures you see. As it turns out, they can serve a pretty fine lunch at the same time, too. Here are a few ways to get a full and filling experience of Skye’s wildlife, centred around a sailing trip we took on our most recent visit to Skye.

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Sailing on the Breeze, Portree

Jasper Buxton first sailed at the age of nine and he was instantly smitten. “You have so little control as a kid. I loved the sudden freedom of it,” he told us, as we sailed past the line of pink and yellow houses that overlook the harbour. A career in law drew him away from the sea, but when a cancellation on a company sailing day opened up a slot, he stepped in, realising the moment he was on deck that this was what he wanted to be doing.

Years later, via an Atlantic crossing and some hairy moments recruiting crew in Caribbean bars, he’s settled on Skye, co-running Viewfield House with his wife Iona and taking guests on wildlife watching day trips aboard Breeze. The half day excursions give you a spectacular view of the island as you carve through the sound of Raasay, on the lookout for sea eagles, dolphins and more.

As we sailed, Jasper told us the stories of Skye that are written into the land. He pointed out the “man-made” landscape to the north, where sheep had stripped the hills of trees, and the remains of the tiny abandoned village of Scorr, on the Braes estate. The estate was the site of a famous battle in 1882 that was important for crofters’ rights all across the highlands.

He also talked about Skye’s relationship with tourism, which his role as a volunteer director of Skye Connect makes him well placed to discuss. He recommended the MySkyeTime app, which helps people find quieter times and places to visit and records data to help decisions on infrastructure development. He’s keen for visitors to stay longer and see fewer places in more detail, to really experience Skye’s pace of life and not just snap pictures of the scenery and leave. As we sat on deck in the sun, drifting gently through the still water, we agreed that this was definitely a good idea.

Dolphins are mostly seen in the summer months, so while we didn’t end up encountering any on our April trip, the sights and sounds of a day on the waters of Skye were more than adequate compensation. And that’s without even mentioning lunch, for which prosecco and smoked salmon magically appeared as we lay at anchor. So, even though the day had been billed as a wildlife spotting trip, it turned into a much broader experience of Skye, and all the better for it.

A few other suggestions…

Kylerhea Otter Hide

Kylerhea is the name of the narrow sound between southeastern Skye and the mainland, a low rocky coastline that’s the perfect habitat for otters. The hide isn’t the easiest to access, being down a mile-long track from the nearest parking, but that means a peaceful environment for the otters and a pretty tranquil one for the viewers too. Looking down on the small white lighthouse and scanning idly for movement on the shore is a wonderfully meditative experience to the point that, as with all good wildlife watching, it really doesn’t matter what you see.

Adventures with Skye Ghillie

When Mitchell Partridge left the RAF, a lifelong love of the wild resurfaced. After settling on Skye, he first began leading walks with Skye’s community of “fishing widows” keen to learn a little more about the land and what it provided. From these idle walks, Skye Ghillie evolved and Mitchell now runs foraging hikes, bushcraft skill workshops and all sorts of adventurous activities. Heading out with him, dressed as he often in traditional ghillie attire of tweed and tie, is a chance to see parts of Skye that few ever reach and learn an enormous amount about everything from chanterelle mushrooms to the habits of sea eagles.

Misty Isle Boat Trips

As we arrived in Elgol harbour, with the late afternoon sun starting to dip, the last passengers aboard Misty Isle Boat Trips were returning to shore. Our host Clare at Coruisk House and many others had recommended them to us. The family business has been operating for over 50 years, whisking guests across the waters of Loch Coruisk on the hunt for whales, basking sharks, dolphins and the incredible marine birdlife that all make their home on and around the island.

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Christopher Wilson-Elmes

Sawday's Expert

Chris is our in-house copywriter, with a flair for turning rough notes and travel tales into enticing articles. Raised in a tiny Wiltshire village, he was desperate to travel and has backpacked all over the world. Closer to home, he finds himself happiest in the most remote and rural places he can find, preferably with a host of animals to speak to, some waves to be smashed about in and the promise of a good pint somewhere in his future.

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