Now that autumn is in full swing, you can expect most weekends to be filled with roaring fires, cosy pubs, delicious grub and brisk walks. The Cotswolds is one of the most beautiful UK destinations to welcome the changing season, and here we reveal five of our favourite pubs and walks in the region.
The Bell at Skenfrith, Abergavenny
The position here is magical: an ancient stone bridge, a river snaking through the valley, glorious hills rising beyond, cows grazing in lush fields. Inside, you’ll find a long bar, well stocked with local wines and ales and an airy restaurant for excellent food. In summer, doors fly open and life spills onto a stone terrace with a pretty garden and views of the surrounding hills and woodland. Sit beside the river Monnow – a fine spot for lunch in the sun.
Owner Paula recommends one of the seven circular walks they’ve designed, that start at the front door – with maps to show you the way. Delicious food awaits your return, perhaps Welsh rarebit with a poached egg, braised beef brisket with dauphinoise potatoes, apple doughnuts with toffee sauce and mulled cider.
The Kings Head Inn, Chipping Norton
A beautiful English inn, a 17th-century cider house made of ancient stone that sits on the green in a Cotswold village with free-range hens strutting their stuff and a family of ducks bathing in the pond. Breakfast and supper are taken in a pretty dining room, and later you can lunch by the fire in the bar on devilled kidneys, grilled mackerel, a plate of British cheeses.
There’s loads to do, too: antiques in Stow, golf at Burford, but for a real taste of the Cotswolds, a lengthy walk to rustle up a fireside appetite. Owners Archie and Nicola suggest one of the beautiful circular walks along the Oxfordshire Way. You can get a sheet of walks from the inn or pick up the Explorer Walks leaflet from Stow Tourist Office.
Sign of the Angel, Lacock
Occupying centre-stage in one the prettiest of all Cotswold villages, the Sign of the Angel is a genuine period piece: all chalky whitewash and wonky beams, artful oak furniture and flagstoned passageways.
The inn was taken over by energetic young brothers Tom and Jack in 2014, and has been impeccably renovated to trumpet its age. The owners are from farming stock, and it shows in Head Chef Ashley’s menu. Everything from the bread to the sorbets is locally sourced and homemade: warm mackerel rarebit, brioche and heritage tomato salad; baked tenderloin in local bacon stuffed with pear and Bath cheese; Bramley crumble with toffee apple ice cream. Lacock is unlike any other village, and you’d do well to soak up as much as possible whilst you’re there, rather than walking the hikes peripherally, so explore the town, and get that appetite ready!
The Feathered Nest Country Inn, Chipping Norton
This 18th-century malthouse has an appealing flagged bar that steps down to a smouldering fire in the snug… the perfect spot to enjoy the papers. In summer, spill into the garden where the view reaches five miles. Walkers drop by for a drink or Sunday lunch; locals stay for acoustic evenings. If you’re looking to explore the area, and get a stroll in before lunch, owner Adam Taylor suggests you take the stroll from Chipping Norton to Over Norton, a 5-mile round walk.
The food here is a real draw: Chef Matt Weedon has earned multiple accolades (including Michelin stars at two of his restaurants) and heads up the kitchen with a focus on fresh local produce and flavours. The kitchen churns its butter and bakes its own bread, and they take pride in their inventive menus. Spoil yourself with the three-course Nest menu, or the more relaxed bar menu; the sommelier has put together a superb wine list.
The Swan, Ascott-under-Wychwood
Find a peaceful alcove for a first-class negroni, or a window seat for tea. You can come by train from London, a rare treat. There are three beers on draft and many fine wines, but here at The Swan, the food is the thing. Locally sourced, it is modern British and delicious. Small plates, Sunday roasts, vegetarian: they do it all. The dining room is raftered; the courtyard can seat a hundred.
Lanes, tracks and stiles start from the door; you can walk for hours. Or follow the road to Charlbury – one of the prettiest drives in the region. Owners Sam and Georgina Pearman suggest taking the Bruern loop from Leafield for a 7-mile jaunt in the locale.
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