Scotland has a whopping 790 islands jutting off its craggy coastline, all with a stark beauty unmatched by the mainland. From large islands like Skye, Lewis and Harris to the tiny islands of Taransay and Scarp, who’s populations dwindled until the last residents left in the 1970s, each island has its own unique character and atmosphere. Catching a ferry to the Scottish islands is an adventure in itself, the waters are a haven for wildlife and make for thrilling encounters with eagles, whales, dolphins, seals, sea birds, and more. Walkers, climbers and foodies will find much to delight: discover hidden coves, beaches straight out of the Caribbean, ancient castles, whisky distilleries and just-caught seafood. We’ve rounded up a handful of our favourite island escapes and places to stay for your own UK island hopping trip.
Isle of Skye
Stay at: The Crofter’s House
One of the largest of Scotland’s islands, Skye is a popular destination for walkers and foodies. Escape the crowds by heading into far-flung corners, where the stunning scenery is truly intoxicating and walkers are spoilt for choice. Whether you’re looking for a challenge, or simply want to soak it all up on a gentle stroll, there are walks to suit all levels. Scramble up the Cuillin, the UK’s most challenging mountain, wander through the weird and wonderful rock formations of the Quiraing, stroll along Talisker Bay, one of the few sandy beaches on Skye – take a bracing dip, if you dare! Then warm up with a wee dram in Talisker distillery. For just-caught seafood, cooked to perfection, seek out the Michelin Star restaurant, Loch Bay, in the Waternish peninsula. Just five miles from the bustling main town, Portree, tucked down a single-track road is a quiet bay, ensconced by soft green hills and big skies. The views from your whitewashed 19th-century crofter’s cottage are as peaceful and calm as it gets. But that doesn’t mean it’s back-to-basics. Inside, the cottage is stylishly cool with a Scandi-design touch, a bright and contemporary kitchen, a wood and peat-burning stove and a beautifully uncluttered bedroom.
Owner Sarah’s tips: The house is a two minute walk from the bay and wildlife includes seals, sea eagles, otters, basking sharks, dolphins – and local sheep.
Lewis and Harris
Stay at: Borve Lodge Estate
The Western Isles or Outer Hebrides are culturally different to other regions in Scotland. Two thirds of the country’s working crofts are found here and the region is also home to a thriving Gaelic speaking community. Taking a ferry crossing from Ullapool, gateway to the Western Isles, Uig or Oban into the Outer Hebrides is an otherworldly experience, allowing you to slip the shackles of everyday life. Many of the 119 islands are uninhabited but Lewis and Harris (often described as separate islands, they are in fact two parts of a single island) is/are the largest and most well known. Borve Lodge Estate is two stunning eco builds blending into the wildly beautiful coastal landscape: The Broch echoes an Iron Age roundhouse and The Rock House is a single storey space built into the rugged landscape – take both and get together for hill-walking, fishing, bird-spotting and beach-combing forays straight from the door. Go a little further for whisky distilleries, kayaking, Harris tweed-making demonstrations, golfing, and boat trips.
Owner’s tips: The famous Luskentyre beach is within a 10 minute drive of Borve Lodge Estate where one can enjoy the crystal blue waters and white sands along the miles of coastline.
Isle of Mull
Stay at: Treshnish Farm
The Inner Hebrides are ravishing and Mull more than most. Its rugged mountains drop down to silvery sands and startlingly clear waters, birds of prey soar over land and coast, otters play along the shore, and if you visit the west coast you’re pretty much guaranteed to see such delights as whales, dolphins and porpoise. There’s more too. A colourful and enticing waterfront town, Tobermoray, with pubs and restaurants, many serving just-caught seafood, a Munro to clamber – Ben More is Mull’s highest peak – or the wacky rock formations of the Carsaig Arches at Malcolm’s Point. Take a ferry to the holy island of Iona or visit a castle – there are six! On the wild northwest coast near Calgary beach is an eco-friendly, open-plan traditional ‘blackhouse’ in a cluster of three sea-facing crofters’ cottages. It’s a magical place for a couple and blissfully free of mod cons, with no TV but plenty of games and books and a wood-burner to keep you warm. You’ll see red deer on the hill by day and shooting stars at night – if you’re lucky you may even see the Northern Lights. The coast is a ten-minute ramble.
Owner Carolyne’s tips: Mull & Iona have a Food Trail now, to help visitors (and locals) source the wonderful island produce available – farm shops, producer’s markets and eateries. You will find some tasters waiting for you when you arrive!
Jura Places
Stay at: Feolin Farm
Rugged and brooding Jura is populated by the friendliest, most laid-back folk and you’ll soon find yourself slipping into the gentle pace of island life. The island positively thrums with a vast array of birdlife. Gannets, fulmars, puffins and more thrive on the craggy cliffs and off the coast are basking seals, dolphins and porpoises. Almost deserted beaches are deeply alluring but the weather is changeable and temperatures are low even in the summer, so you’ll need to be made of stern stuff to brave the waters. Tackle the rugged twin hills, the Paps, home to an enormous red deer population, or take the boat to Islay, Queen of the Hebrides, for a restorative dram of the world’s greatest, and peatiest, whisky. On Jura’s east coast stands a solid whitewashed farmhouse surrounded by fields and heather-covered hills with cosy rooms and sublime views of Small Isles Bay. Spot red deer in the garden and eagles soaring overhead, snuggle in the cosy sitting room with window seats inviting you to look seawards, light the fire on nippy nights. Cheerful bedrooms are decorated in floral fabrics and overlook the garden or sea.
Guest Sue’s tips: Great to be back on Jura at Feolin: swimming with the seals, wildlife boat tour, beach combing, and walks with the dogs. Islay Woollen Mill is worth a visit.
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Carmen McCormack
Guest Expert
Carmen is a freelance writer specialising in travel. She once lived in a bus in north Wales, skipped off to study in Barcelona, and now calls Bristol home. When she’s not tapping away on her laptop, she can be found reading (a lot), lake swimming (a little), and pottering on the allotment with husband and two kiddos. She’s currently dreaming about cold cerveza and torta in Mexico.
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