Surf and supper: Six great Puglian beaches and where to eat

Gargano 

1. Peschici and Baia di Zaiana, near Rodi Gargano  

The beaches and coves of Peschici, a charming seaside village with whitewashed overlooking turquoise waters, are perfect for a peaceful retreat. Baia di Zaiana, just a little way round the coast from the village, is a small, wild beach framed by cliffs and popular among locals.  

Where to eat: Eden, a family-run restaurant on the coast in Peschici serving traditional recipes made with seasonal ingredients. Think zero-kilometer produce, extra virgin olive oil from Ogliarola Garganica, handmade pasta made from the finest wheat flour and fresh Adriatic fish.  

2. Pugnochiuso, 30 min south of Vieste 

Half an hour down the coast from Vieste, this is a beautiful coastal area within the Gargano National Park, offering pristine beaches surrounded by pine forests. Ideal for those who love nature and tranquility. 

Where to eat: Ristorante Il Capriccio. A refined but still authentic place with a focus on ultra-fresh seafood, located just a short drive from Pugnochiuso. Perfect for a memorable dinner by the sea.   

3. The Tremiti islands (sail from Vieste and Rodi Gargano) 

The Tremiti islands are still technically Puglia, but take you even further off the beaten track to a hidden paradise off the Gargano coast. Explore underwater caves, snorkel in crystal-clear waters, and discover the charming island of San Nicola with its ancient monastery. An unforgettable day for nature lovers and adventurers. 

Where to eat: La Fenice (on San Domino Island) is cozy and simple, serving excellent seafood dishes and island specialties like octopus salad and grilled fish, just steps from the water. 

Salento 

4. Polignano a Mare, near Bari 

Swim beneath dramatic limestone cliffs with houses perched above you. The tiny cove can get very crowded, so this is an early morning or off season treat, to be followed by a walk through the old town, where flowers and fragments of poems are painted on many of the walls.  

Where to eat: Osteria di Chichibio: A traditional seafood restaurant beloved by locals. Forget tourist menus: here you find fresh catch of the day, raw seafood platters, and hand-rolled pasta. 

5. Baia dei Turchi, near Otranto 

A secluded sandy beach where the shallow turquoise waters make for easy, lazy bathing. It’s named for being the site of a brutal invasion by Turks in 1480, which is hard to imagine when you see a place of such peace and beauty, surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation swaying in the breeze. 

Where to eat: LaltroBaffo, in Otranto’s old town. A contemporary take on Salento cuisine using only local ingredients. Perfect if you want something authentic yet a little upscale.   

6. Torre Guaceto Nature Reserve, near Brindisi 

A protected area with untouched beaches and a peaceful atmosphere. Perfect for snorkeling and watching unforgettable sunsets. 

Where to eat: One of my all-time favourites – Masseria Le Carrube. An old masseria (farmhouse) turned into a beautiful restaurant serving authentic dishes from local organic produce. A magical atmosphere in the countryside.