This cleverly renovated watchman’s lodge is three stone houses woven into one, with a garden in the offing and a wonderful valley view. Inside, a new and tasteful mix of old and new: a sitting room, cosy yet sedate, with interesting artefacts and original leaded windows, and a modern glassed-in dining room with choice antique pieces. You can book in for breakfast here, or find a spot in town. The bedrooms are below, and your hosts, ex-hoteliers, know how to pamper: expect marbled pelmets and skirting boards, toile de Jouy headboards, and towels that are changed each day. Beautiful Domme is best out of season – as is the parking.