Perched on a hill at the foot of castle ramparts sits a beautifully converted house with stunning valley and woodland views. It’s warm and friendly with two sitting rooms, one with slouchy sofa and big coffee table, the other with sofabed. Wend your way up oak staircases to two cosy bedrooms with iron paysan-style beds, higgledy-piggledy beams, oak floors and sensational film-set views. Just go steady in the dead of night as you back down the stairs – to a state-of-the-art bathroom with a swish walk-in shower and tub. The rustic-contemporary kitchen is a delight, with its exposed stone walls, flagstone floors, and corner dining table. Leave your car in the square opposite and spend the days pottering up and down the steep cobblestone streets and the Perigord Noir houses of the village, bright with flowers in summer. Don’t miss the château gardens, Wednesday’s market, river swimming 4km away. Enjoy a quiet drink on the small terrace, then amble off to a restaurant or bar. This may not be perfect for the very young – or those craving WiFi – but for a family or two couples happy to share a bathroom, it’s bliss.