Ducks on the pond, goats in the greenhouse and food à la grand-mère on the plate – the lovely Moulin de Labique glows with warmth and good humour. Shutters are painted with bleu de pastel and the 13th-century interiors have lost none of their charm. The Belgian owners, Christine and Patrick, share dinners (seasonal, local, delicious) in wonderfully relaxed fashion. Bedrooms are a match for the rest of the place and are divided between those in the main building above a vaulted salle d’armes, those in the barn, reached via a grand stone stair, and a suite in the old bread and prune-drying ovens. There are chunky roof beams, seagrass mats on ancient tiles, lovely old iron bedsteads, antique mirrors and flower-sprigged wallpapers. One room has a balcony, the apartment in the barn has a terrace, and some bathrooms have Portuguese tiles: there’s much to captivate and delight. Outside, old French roses, young alleys of trees, a stream and an exquisite, child-safe pool. Book a long stay, and make time for tastings at the Monbazillac domaines. Do be aware that there are two spiral staircases on site that aren’t great for some.