Madame is a collector of intriguing finds (including the Peugeot 203). Her two family-friendly garden-facing bedrooms make good use of compact space: one has the double bed on the mezzanine floor and children sleep below; the other, pretty in pale colours, sleeps three. The disabled access room is larger, also simply furnished, with a baldequin bed. You breakfast at one big table next to the kitchen. Do arrange a meal in the sheltered outdoor dining area, too; it’s fun and hung with agricultural bits and bobs, and the food will be good. All in a quiet village, in open country 18km south of medieval Troyes.