The secluded old buildings house two owner families, a restaurant, several guest rooms and 15 tons of ever-present live fish. Fishing folk gather on Sundays to catch trout in the spring water that feeds the ponds; groups come for speciality lunches. Meals may include trout terrine, home-reared salmon, a neighbour’s potatoes, wild asparagus in buttery sauce, cinnamon custard. For breakfast round the big table there’s brioche, baguettes, croissants, yogurt, fruit salad, cereals, apple juice and their own jams and honey. Created in an old mill 40 years ago, the bedrooms under the eaves are mostly small-windowed, simply furnished and prettily decorated in rustic or ‘grandmother’ style. Other rooms are in the newly built half-timbered cottage across the drive. At one end of the shop – packed with cottage-industry goodies (charcuterie, honey, jams, wine and champagne) – is a wide floor of thick glass under which immense fish can be seen swimming to and fro between the water tanks. A pony wanders freely in the grounds. Wonderful food and service – and good English spoken.