Monique and Paul-André bought this old wine-grower’s estate on the edge of town and carefully restored it inside and out. They look after you beautifully – she has endless energy and adores people, he is quiet and charming. Find an airy guest sitting room, gardens with views to the Pyrenees and luxurious bedrooms.
Breakfast in the orangery, or under the pomegranate trees in summer: pastries, bread, fruit, cheese, homemade cake, jam made by a neighbour. It’s a few minutes’ walk to Moussoulens village for places to eat – there’s a bakery and store too.
Discover hilltop bastides and castles of the Cathars. Carcassonne, nearby, has lively Thursday and Sunday markets. Montolieu, a five-minute drive, has tons of bookshops to browse – the French version of Hay. Cyclists love the Canal du Midi routes.