Old, mighty, atmospheric – yet so homely. Enormous rooms, high heavy-beamed ceilings, large windows with sensational valley views; terraced gardens and animals; impressive bedrooms up an ancient spiral staircase that sets the imagination reeling; with their handsome wardrobes, polished beds and heated terracotta floors. Twice a week Hélène prepares dinner for guests in her modernised 17th-century tower kitchen (wood-fired range, stone sink, cobbled floor). She makes her own bread, honey, jams and walnut aperitif, and the wines come from their Montpellier vineyard. Stay one night and you’ll wish you’d stayed more.