At this homely cottage beneath the Kerry Dark Sky Reserve, you can explore sandy beaches by day and gaze at galaxies by night. Built centuries ago, Dereenaraig is a rustic, whitewashed farmhouse surrounded by fields and hills. Come here to escape busy cities, write a novel or hike through valleys; only lowing cows and clucking chickens disturb the silence. Walks start from the door and you’re a kilometre from both the coast and the Ring of Kerry. Inside, tradition and practicality combine. The original dresser still stands in the kitchen and the thoughtful neighbours leave you a welcome basket including seasonal vegetables, homemade jams and herbs. A wood-burner warms the big, old-fashioned dining room and there’s a comfortable sitting room stocked with books and DVDs for rainy days. Upstairs, two bright and airy double rooms have antique beds, while there’s a cosy twin room for kids. Back downstairs, there are a couple of simple bathrooms. The cottage stands within an acre of wild garden where energetic little ones can roam free. Active families will also love kayaking around Kenmare Bay or rock-pooling along the beautiful Iveragh Peninsula.