Once you’ve negotiated the steep and windy access drive, you are rewarded with sensational views over Santa Margherita. Roberto, a Ligurian farmer, inherited the house from his grandfather in a dilapidated state; he’s made a few changes! He is a wonderful host and loves this place, deep in the country but within sight of the sea.
Enjoy breakfast or a glass of wine from the terrace and gaze down the coast: a treat. Each bedroom is colourful, spotless, simply furnished and decorated with dried flowers. Bright bedcovers dress grandfather’s beds, muslin curtains flutter at windows, old framed prints hang on the walls and many shower rooms are tiny.
A small shed has been converted into a useful kitchen so you can rustle up snacks. Apart from the hoot of the train and the faint hum of the traffic below, the only sound to break the peace is birdsong. Forget the hire car: paths lead to most of the villages and there are buses from the gate.