In the hills of the north coast lies this irresistible 30-acre lemon and olive farm – come in October and join in the olive harvest – the home of Sebastiano, Maria Teresa and their son Luca. The limestone farmhouse occupies a converted olive mill and sits amidst tangled gardens, surrounded by grounds which yield a heavenly array of fruit and vegetables for use in Teresa’s local specialities. Rooms are spacious and charming, with tiled floors, traditional furniture, white walls and unfussy en suites tucked into corners. Signs of the building’s former use are prevalent, from the bed – with glass sides for viewing – on top of the olive reservoir, to the splendid oil mill lounge, with remnants of the old paste press and a large table fashioned from the mill stone. Sumptuous breakfasts of breads, cakes, fruit and cheese are served buffet-style from the kitchen table. Wander into Pettineo village (a ten-minute walk), visit Cefalù, explore the coast or take a boat trip to the Aeolian Islands. This is authentic Sicily in all its Mediterranean glory, as seductive as you would imagine such a place to be.