In a city awash with grand palazzi and baroque churches are the renovated stables of the Palazzo di Federico. Annalise’s and her daughter’s passion for decoration shows in every detail and the artsy atmosphere they have created is a joy for eyes and soul; as are the paintings created by Annalise’s husband, a doctor with a great gift for art. The building stands on a narrow street in the heart of ancient Ballarò, close to Palermo’s oldest market and two steps from Palermo’s cathedral. The noise from this lively street is a reality for the rooms at the front; however, most face the back and all are protected by double glazed windows, or skylights for those on the top floor. This family’s home is yours to enjoy, from the roaring fire in low season (recommended!) to the courtyard garden where outstanding breakfasts are served (fruits, warm cassata, freshly baked desserts) among citrus trees and palms: it is the dreamiest B&B. Visit the Botanical Gardens where everything blooms, or Sunday’s vintage market at the Marina. With its Arab-Norman-Byzantine heritage, the history of the city is fascinating.