The beauty of simplicity is their motto. Casanuova was once a monastery, then an orphanage…. now the Besançons work hard on the production of their organic wine and olive oil here, along with cookery and yoga classes. They are a hospitable family: fresh menus are chalked up on the board each day; meals, served at large tables under the vines, are happy events, open to the public. Off the refectory is a library where you can pore over trekking maps at a big round table. Just a short stroll from the house are two apartments for self-caterers, one up, one down. But we recommend the B&B rooms, spotless and charming, furnished with natural fabrics (no TVs) and with a serenely monastic air; bathrooms are equally delightful. This is a real family business: Ursula and Thierry have made it what it is today and their sons will create the future. Wander the delightful garden with its green corners, inviting terraces and a secret herb garden. Best of all, in a clearing in the woods, is an enchanting place for swimming, a natural, self-cleansing pool with lily pads, surrounded by decking.