Once you see the towers of the castle, soaring above the trees on the edge of Monteroni, you know you have arrived. The grounds, aromatic with roses and lemons, are much-loved, and the outbuildings and chapel have been beautifully restored – imagine getting married here. The entrance is through an enchanting courtyard – pull the bell, open the doors, ascend the steps, and enter the home of the Fiorentini family. Beatrice and Andrea are warm, courteous and charming, as are their sons who manage the estate, allowing the parents to concentrate on the guests – and grow saffron! Inside is like stepping into another age: portraits, busts and paintings on pale stone walls, wrought-iron beds on polished cotto tiles, family furniture revived with fresh fabrics and colours, and a billiard room en route to the tower, from where you can gaze at the stars. Bedrooms, big, luxurious and in the main house, are named after family members who have lived here. And then there’s breakfast: Beatrice’s pastries, croissants and delectable grape jellies, Tuscan hams, and ricotta from the neighbouring farm.