Climb up the hill from the bustling town, drive down a narrow street and through a driveway (even narrower – watch the car) to enter a green oasis, and be greeted by friendly Andrew, passionate about this place and bursting with plans. It’s B&B but incredibly free from fuss: you may put your own food and wine in the fridge, flop out in the sitting room or in the pretty garden, wander the vines from which delicious madeira wine is produced (ask about the family history), come and go freely. Breakfast is outside on sunny days: homemade granola and jams, fresh fruit, cheese. If you can’t face walking into town or fending for yourselves then opt for dinner – 3 courses of traditional dishes mainly from Madeira, Portugal and Italy. Bedrooms are upstairs off a long corridor and aren’t in the least surprising – more of an old-fashioned homely feel – but all are large, light, comfortable and spotlessly clean; bathrooms are generous with proper windows. Hard core walkers can storm into the hills from the house and there’s swimming from the beaches in town. A friendly place to stay – not for the helicopter brigade.