This sophisticated Andalucian oasis is run by natural host Colette, a former airline manager. She masterminds beach clean-ups and lecturers on sustainable fishing, and serves the freshest, fairest catches. You follow a dusty track through fragrant pine forests (catching sea glimpses) to a building fringed with bougainvillea, frangipani and crunchy gravel paths. Breakfast on the terrace – spying egrets and storks amidst citrus trees – on fresh-sliced fruit and organic eggs; dine on gazpacho, vegetarian curry and tasty gratins. There’s a huge outdoor shower to refresh you after a day at unspoilt beaches, while crisp, bright rooms (Acacia and Aloe, plus the favoured Faro suite) are modern with rustic touches; through floaty voile you can see Cape Trafalgar’s lighthouse. Walnut furniture is Art Deco; Havana art complements 1940s travelling trunks and hand-stitched linen; bathrooms have antique mirrors and opaque glass bricks. Find books and WiFi throughout, and a socialable dining table overlooked by log fires and Spanish seascapes. Watch whales, walk to Barbate (8km), surf at El Palmar, try flamenco in Jerez.