It’s off a scenic back road, deep in a river valley carved out of the rugged Subbética mountains. When Claire and Tim strayed here fifteen years ago, they fell for a ruined olive farm and rolled up their sleeves: now the big airy house gleams with white walls, hand-painted tiles and sensational pool terrace. Solar panels, olive-fuelled biomass: it’s as eco-friendly as it is luxurious; the nearest neighbours are wild boar and birds. Best is the terrace: hammock slung under shady thatch by the pool, tables for dinner under the stars. Each air-conditioned bedroom – huge beds, bright cushions, lamps, rain-head showers, underfloor heating – looks upon a stubbled swathe of olives and jagged mountains: Membrillo wins the sunset prize, Olivo has a terrace. Over Claire’s home cooking or a glass of wine in the fire-warmed lounge, swap travel tales and ask Tim about the web of hiking trails. You’re an easy bike ride on a Vía Verde to one of Andalucia’s famed white villages, just north of clifftop Priego de Córdoba and midway between Granada and Cordoba, each an hour’s drive. Fancy-free and first class.