A shame to stay only a night. This jewel of a place lies in a primeval Eden-like valley, lapped by the river Ebro. It is a 13th-century millworkers’ home restored by young owner Javier, and the simplicity of the façade is reflected inside; all is authentic and exquisite. From the dim little entrance hall – cool for summer, warm for winter – you enter a chunky-beamed, stone-walled sitting room scattered with country furniture, a kilim, a sofa, a crackling fire. Then to bedrooms upstairs, each a splendid surprise: a cosy, delightful sitting room with a sofabed for children, and a double on the gallery above. There are antique wrought-iron beds, large classic wardrobes, white-and-terracotta bathrooms, sky windows to gaze at the stars… and you drift off to the sound of the river. Breakfast is a fine start to the day and the dinners, fresh and seasonal, are memorable. On a promontory down by the river is the watermill, 1,000 years old; the old flint wheels spin into action still when the sluice gate is opened. Spot otters and fish in the river – paradise for birdwatchers too! Exceptional owners, heavenly place.