Arrive along a two-kilometre dirt track to a gloriously wild hotel, bursting with colour, greenery and birdsong. Snuggle up around big open fires, read a good book in the library, lounge in hammocks in the garden or under cover in the courtyard – there’s a wonderfully warm feel. Rooms are wacky – bare concrete walls covered with paintings and furnishings from all over the world; the beams are from monasteries and old wood doors from Madrid houses.
Breakfast, brought to the long friendly table, is worth rising for: freshly squeezed orange juice, fresh fruit, eggs from the chickens with local cheeses and hams. The homemade cake is excellent too.
There’s plenty of wildlife to spot on the estate: head off deer stalking or settle into the hide to spot nesting storks. Gaze out on the foothills of the sierra (2 of the rooms have terraces); the hiking and cycling are excellent and you can reach the top in about an hour and a half on foot.